Artisan Tequila & Mezcal Production

Harvesting

The small-batch process for tequila production starts in the agave fields, where up to 20 tons of agave are harvested. This batch of agave is tracked throughout the entire process, from field to bottle. To make authentic tequila, a specific type of agave called Blue Weber agave, also known as blue agave or agave tequilana, is required.

In the case of mezcal, different types of agave are used. While there are over 300 species of agave that can be used for mezcal production, in reality, about 30 to 50 are commonly utilized.

Cooking for Tequila

The next stage involves cooking the piña bulb to extract its fermentable sugars. In the past, this was done by baking the bulbs in pits lined with rocks. Nowadays, piñas are prepared in either large stainless steel ovens or ovens made of brick or clay called hornos.

Agave, much like yam or sweet potato, contains abundant natural starches. To convert these carbohydrates into sugar requires slow and gentle cooking. Instead of baking, the bulb is cooked using hot, pressurized steam. The cooking duration can vary according to the preferences of the tequila producer, but it generally takes at least 24 hours.

Once the agave is cooked, the previously white and green piñas take on a deep caramel or brown color, resembling a sweet and soft honeycomb.

Cooking for Mezcal

Traditionally, well-respected mezcals are made using an earthen pit to cook the agave. Each producer has their own unique design and approach that influences the mezcal’s final flavor.

The pit is lined with local wood and heat-retaining volcanic rocks or stones. A fire is lit early in the morning and burns for hours. Agaves are arranged in layers, covered with earth and agave leaves, and left to roast for several days.

This roasting process caramelizes the natural sugars in the agave, giving mezcal its distinct smoky flavor. It also transforms inulin in the agave into the sugars needed for fermentation into alcohol.

Juice Extraction (Crushing)

Once the piñas are cooked and their sugars are caramelized, it’s time to separate them from the agave fibers and add water for alcohol fermentation. To get the sweet juice, called “mosto vivo,” out of the piña, it needs to be crushed and shredded. There are two ways to do this:

Traditional method: Use a big stone wheel (tahona) to crush the piña and extract the juice. In the past, mules, oxen, or horses pulled the wheel, but today, tractors or engines do the work. This method is less common because it’s labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Modern method: Most distilleries now use a machine called a roller mill. It crushes the agave fibers on a motorized belt and then washes them. This process creates a sugary liquid called “agua miel,” which is ready for fermentation.

Fermentation

Fermentation is a crucial step in transforming the mosto vivo into a spirit.

After the agaves are crushed, the fibers and juices are fermented into alcohol using naturally occurring yeasts in a container of choice that can be made of stone, soil, trunk, masonry, wood, clay, animal skins, or stainless steel.

Artisanal and ancestral categories of mezcal allow for fibers in fermentation. Fermentation duration varies based on temperature and humidity, ranging from a few days to weeks. The brew typically begins with an alcohol by volume (ABV) of 3%–5%. To raise this ABV and refine the liquid into tequila or mezcal, the producer proceeds to the next stage of distillation.

Distillation

The fermented juice is distilled several times to achieve the proper alcohol percentage, either in copper or stainless steel pot stills. Tequila is required by law to be distilled at least twice to fully clear out fermentation particles. However, some tequila producers use three or even four distillations. Similar to tequila, mezcals must be distilled twice. The first distillation produces a liquid called ordinario, which is then distilled a second time to produce mezcal. The final product is typically between 35% and 55% alcohol by volume (ABV).

In the production of mezcal, traditional techniques are often employed: during the second or third distillation, additional ingredients are introduced into the still. These ingredients can vary from regional fruits and herbs to even meats, resulting in unique and complex mezcal flavor profiles.

Heads & Tails

In the art of distillation, the master distiller plays a pivotal role by carefully separating specific alcohol portions known as “heads” and “tails.” This precise and critical step is instrumental in achieving the ideal flavor balance.

The “ordinario” emerges as a three-part liquid, with the upper section referred to as the “head,” the middle known as the “heart,” and the lower portion called the “tail.” It is customary practice among tequila and mezcal makers to re-distill only the “heart” of the liquid captured in the flask, as it contains the highest-quality spirits. “Heads” and “tails” are typically discarded because they often harbor impurities.

Although there is a loss of some fermented juice during the heads and tails cuts, this sacrifice, though incurring a financial cost, is justified by the commitment to craft a superior product.

Aging

The aging process is a crucial step in the production of tequila and mezcal. After distillation, the fresh product is transferred into oak barrels, which can be of American or French origin. These barrels, whether new or previously used, play a pivotal role in shaping the final aroma and flavor profile of the product.

Just like rum and whiskey, the choice of barrels for tequila and mezcal imparts their oaky flavor and ultimate color. Distilleries source barrels from various parts of the world, with some brands opting for new barrels or crafting their own, while most prefer used barrels from other industries, such as bourbon, wine, or whiskey barrels.

Bottling

The bottling stage marks the grand finale of the production process. It’s the moment of truth for tequila and mezcal, as they must pass rigorous quality inspections before they find their way into the bottle. In addition, each bottle undergoes a thorough washing to ensure it’s free from any dust or debris.

To avoid any unwanted water dilution or chemical residues when bottling, producers cleanse the inside of every bottle with the very spirit they are about to bottle. Although this results in some tequila or mezcal being unused, it guarantees that customers receive the purest and cleanest spirit Mexico has to offer.

In the world of artisanal tequila and mezcal, the labels and cork are thoughtfully applied by hand after the bottle has been filled, adding a touch of craftsmanship to the final product.